As per Bottega Veneta: “Honesty in materiality and silhouette means the clothing is no longer pretending to be something other than what it really is: There is… comfort and protection in supple leather.”
Save for pops of scarlet leather, the color palette in Milan was overwhelmingly dark and utilitarian for Fall-Winter 2024, with dark khaki and olive greens dominating (beautifully at Ferragamo and Tod’s).
Even at MaxMara, famed for its trademark camel, creative director Ian Griffiths went in a deliberately different direction to focus on silhouette over shade. “It was good to free myself of camel for a season and I couldn’t have done these clothes in camel,” he said backstage. “We’re not abandoning it, we’re just giving it a rest, and it’s a rest for me, too.”
Denim came dark, too. Next season it’s all about double selvedge-style denim that is clean cut and precisely pressed.
With a clear focus on unconfrontational fashion throughout the weeks’ worth of shows — save for the very last at Avavav that saw garbage thrown at models on the runway and the brand leaning into its bad reviews with a rolling commentary on screens either side — a sense of preservation hung in the air. Milan’s designers focused on exquisite craft over clickbait, not so much reinventing the wheel, but keeping it rolling.
Models walk a trash-strewn runway at the Avavav fashion show, while big screens at either side flashed up excerpts from previous negative show reviews. Marco M. Mantovani/Getty Images
A focus on dark tones also extended to denim (above, at Versace), where deep washes and clean cuts were the order of the season. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Gigi Hadid walked for Versace,. Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
Solange Knowles sat front row at Ferragamo. Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images
Dark shades with delicate bejewelled embellishments on the runway at Giorgio Armani. Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
Actor Hari Nef was also sat front row at Ferragamo, in head-to-toe green leather. Riccardo Giordano/IPA/Sipa
Cate Blanchett and Giorgio Armani at the latter's Milan catwalk show. Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
At Fendi, Kim Jones showcased irregular polka dots, bodysuits, armwarmers and other subtle nods to his native London in the 1980s. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Dark colors also dominated at Giorgio Armani this season. Gabriel Bouys/AFP/Getty Images
Kim Jones at Fendi also got the dark green memo. Jacopo Raule/Getty Images