Fleecy, fuzzy or fine: Faux fur was a key textile on the London runways. Simone Rocha called her show the final part of a triptych of collections, beginning with her Spring-Summer collection shown in September, a guest slot designing for Jean Paul Gaultier couture in Paris last month, and now her latest Fall-Winter 2024 line. According to the show notes, “The Wake” explored the mourning dress of Queen Victoria and featured a flood of fake fur. There was no end to its usage, from coats and extra large mittens to fur-trimmed tulle capes, shoes, or even earrings.
Similarly, at Conner Ives, faux fur shawls were dressed down with tank tops and jeans, while Precious Lee walked the runway in a detached hood in the fabric, tied wholesomely under her chin. Sinead Gorey, on the other hand, created winter lingerie by adorning corsets and bras with tufts of dyed polyester fur.
At Conner Ives, faux fur shawls and hoods brought a touch of winter glamour to the collection. Ik Aldama
Form and function made a rare collision this season, particularly for those keen on the great outdoors. Emerging designer Johanna Parv designed with the intention of covering her wearer “for all eventualities, around the clock,” according to the collection notes. Parv gave special consideration to the inner-city cyclist, creating tops that can be stretched over a backpack, or an insulated mini-skirt “designed to keep the wearer’s bum warm on the saddle.”
At Burberry, designer Daniel Lee had the wilds of the British isles on his mind when designing his third collection for the brand which featured an abundance of outerwear made in thick, cozy fabrics including fleecy wool, shearling and moleskin.
Johanna Parv created shirts that could be stretched over backpacks, protecting walkers, cyclists or even hikers from the outdoor elements. Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images
Raincoats and anoraks were reinvented by Irish designer Robyn Lynch, who this season collaborated with 1970s athleisure brand C.P. Company. Lynch upcycled outerwear from the past collections by the Italian sportswear label, reimagining silhouettes and adding layers of knitwear. In one look, the flowing, romantic shape of a white rain poncho is reminiscent of an Elizabethan blackwork shirt. At Simone Rocha, too, a nylon windbreaker with a draw-string toggle hood is transformed into a voluminous ball gown and cinched at the waist with an embellished waspie corset; while another is made entirely sheer.
A raincoat becomes the belle of the ball at Simone Rocha. Ben Broomfield/Ben Broomfield @photobenphoto
Robyn Lynch gave the white anorak a romantic silhouette during her Fall-Winter 2024 show. Chris Yates
Collaborating with '70s sportswear brand C.P. Company, she breathed new life into old garments. Chris Yates
Fashion royalty Naomi Campell starred in Burberry's latest runway show in London. Joe Maher/Getty Images
The outdoors were clearly on Daniel Lee's mind, too, as he fashioned cozy outwear for staying warm. Filippo Fior
High-collared shearling jackets were finished with horsebit buckles and hardware. Burberry
Erdem was a vision of mid-20th century elegance. Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images
Staged in the British Museum, the Erdem show featured dresses with built-in scarf drapes. Jason Lloyd Evans
Elbow gloves and reimagined opera coats were everywhere on Erdem's runway. Jason Lloyd Evans
Jonathan Anderson's collection harked back to the 1950's housewife, throwing on what is closest to hang clothes out on the washing line. JW Anderson
“We wanted to do something a bit psychological this time,” Anderson said. “The idea of the grotesque and the pragmatic.” JW Anderson
Faux fur was a major theme at the Simone Rocha show, where patches were used to alter the silhouette like hip or shoulder pads. Ben Broomfield
The textile was also used in a more classic, archetypal way — with opulent, robe-style coats. Ben Broomfield
Sinead Gorey recontextualized the iPod Shuffle as a hair clip. Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images
Old school music technology made another appearance at the Conner Ives show, in a closing look that featured embroidered headphones. Ik Aldama
Precious Lee walked in a detatchable fur hood. Ik Aldama
Edward Crutchley was inspired by cultures across the world, and repurposed woven tapestries into skirts, jackets and cowboy hats. Maja Smiejkowska
Staged in a Gothic Revival church in East London, Dilara Findikoglu's show was a twisted fantasy. Dilara Findikoglu
Skirts were structurall designed to appear permanently blown at Findikoglu's Fall-Winter 2024 show. Dilara Findikoglu
While one of the closing looks featured a wig entirely made of silver keys. Dilara Findikoglu
Latex, tulle and Margiela-style face masks were abundant in Findikoglu's "Femme Vortex." Dilara Findikoglu
Sinead O'Dwyer, whose collection was inspired by a not-so-appropriate take on office wear, led the charge on diverse casting this season. Chris Yates
Lottie Moss, Kate Moss's half-sister, made an appearance on the Sinead O'Dwyer runway. Chris Yates
Model on the runway at Molly Goddard RTW Fall 2024 as part of London Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at the Cecil Sharp House on February 17, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD via Getty Images) Rosas Sune/WWD/Getty Images
Molly Goddard's frilly, feminine creations were given a new edge in moodier colors like maroon and black. Ben Broomfield
Ahluwalia's collection drew from old Indian and Nigeria folklore and fairytales. Ahluwalia
The label also collaborated with Levi's this season to create unique, reworked denim pieces. Ahluwalia
Bright, printed designs in Ahluwalia's collection reference the body painting technique specific to the Igbo people in Nigeria. Matthew Aland